First of all, I must say - if possible, do not cut the branches by yourself, better call a specialist for that.
However, there are situations where it is necessary to do that by yourself - but how can it be done so that the result is visually nice and tree's health would not suffer much from it?
Generally, people cut the branches out of random places - but this is not quite good for the tree.
However, there are situations where it is necessary to do that by yourself - but how can it be done so that the result is visually nice and tree's health would not suffer much from it?
Generally, people cut the branches out of random places - but this is not quite good for the tree.
There are
several important things to pay attention to - so I will describe them
very primitively and briefly:
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| Typical incorrect cutting. Photo: Ravel Reiljan |
1. When to prune?
It depends, first of all, on what species of tree it is and, secondly, on what it wants to achieve by pruning:
a) those species of trees that are at risk of spring juice can not be cut in the spring - the best would be to cut them until the leaves are completely formed (thus, broadly speaking, it would be suitable for pruning from mid-June to late July).
These species are, for example, in Estonia - (Sp.) Betula, Juglans, Acer, Ulmus, Fagus, Populus, Salix, Corylus, Aesculus, Sorbus etc.
Other tree species can be cut at the same time (or in the summer), or in the early spring, before the buds sprout and burst.
b) if it is desired to cut completely dead or broken (dangerous) branches from the tree, this can of course be done throughout the year.
If, however, the living and healthy branches - then to be guided by point a.
2. What should be done before you begin to cut?
a) make sure that you really need to cut the branch or branches.
b) have sharp tools - see sub-topic 3.
c) before cutting, the blades of the cutting tools must be cleaned with antiseptic or spirits (not vodka) (this procedure needs to be repeated for each different tree).
d) ensure the security of yourself and others.
3. By what to cut?
Two things are usually appropriate for cutting - bypass secateurs and hand saw.
Usually, with a scissor, it is convenient to cut a branch to a width of about 2 cm, if there is bigger branch it would be better to use a hand saw.
It's not advisable to use a telescope cutter in your home - it's only good in the case of specialist, who is working with it constantly - yet, if you are not able to access the securely cut branch, use a telescopic cutter - it is then better for your safety.
When you come near the tree with a chainsaw, there is something wrong - in this case, turn to the specialist and ask what to do (in the case of broken branches it is, of course, understandable).
It depends, first of all, on what species of tree it is and, secondly, on what it wants to achieve by pruning:
a) those species of trees that are at risk of spring juice can not be cut in the spring - the best would be to cut them until the leaves are completely formed (thus, broadly speaking, it would be suitable for pruning from mid-June to late July).
These species are, for example, in Estonia - (Sp.) Betula, Juglans, Acer, Ulmus, Fagus, Populus, Salix, Corylus, Aesculus, Sorbus etc.
Other tree species can be cut at the same time (or in the summer), or in the early spring, before the buds sprout and burst.
b) if it is desired to cut completely dead or broken (dangerous) branches from the tree, this can of course be done throughout the year.
If, however, the living and healthy branches - then to be guided by point a.
2. What should be done before you begin to cut?
a) make sure that you really need to cut the branch or branches.
b) have sharp tools - see sub-topic 3.
c) before cutting, the blades of the cutting tools must be cleaned with antiseptic or spirits (not vodka) (this procedure needs to be repeated for each different tree).
d) ensure the security of yourself and others.
3. By what to cut?
Two things are usually appropriate for cutting - bypass secateurs and hand saw.
Usually, with a scissor, it is convenient to cut a branch to a width of about 2 cm, if there is bigger branch it would be better to use a hand saw.
It's not advisable to use a telescope cutter in your home - it's only good in the case of specialist, who is working with it constantly - yet, if you are not able to access the securely cut branch, use a telescopic cutter - it is then better for your safety.
When you come near the tree with a chainsaw, there is something wrong - in this case, turn to the specialist and ask what to do (in the case of broken branches it is, of course, understandable).
4. How to cut?
The most important:
a) do not leave tree snags - it means - do not cut from any place.
b) do not injure or cut off the branch collar, cut branch exactly from the above the branch collar - see the picture below.
c) the bigger branch should be cut in three steps so that the branch does not tear - see the picture below.
These are the main things.
These suggestions should not be transferred to the care of the Betula pendula var. carelica - there are different technologies that we do not currently discuss here.
The most important:
a) do not leave tree snags - it means - do not cut from any place.
b) do not injure or cut off the branch collar, cut branch exactly from the above the branch collar - see the picture below.
c) the bigger branch should be cut in three steps so that the branch does not tear - see the picture below.
These are the main things.
These suggestions should not be transferred to the care of the Betula pendula var. carelica - there are different technologies that we do not currently discuss here.
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| Photo: Internet, Shigo technique. |
Cut line by digits, end point from point A to B. Photo: Internet.
5. How much to cut?
The less, the better.You can always take it away, but you can not put it back..
6. How big cuttings?
Up to 5 cm in diameter - a good solution.
5-7cm diameter - tolerable.
7-10cm diameter - not good for the tree - it is worth looking for alternatives if possible.
A diameter of more than 10 cm - it is worth call to the specialist - perhaps another solution is possible (for example, weakening of the branch, cabling, etc.).
7. Should you cover the cuttings?
Briefly, no.
Your plant can generally cope with its own wounds.
8. How fast are the right cutting areas to grow (encapsulate)?
Very broadly speaking, about 0.5-1cm per year (in Estonia, varies by species).
It is worthwhile to remember that contrary to popular belief, the cuts made to the tree does not heal, but will be locked into the tree by the defenses systems of the tree itself.
Of course, the "cutting" activity is just as specific as other arboristic things - there are different types of cutting possibilities, as well as different cutting techniques and alternatives for cutting, but - while following the simple points above, there is hope that the trees will be less damaged by cutting.
Enter, for example, "Shigo pruning" in the Internet search engine, select the images, and you will see a lot of pictures to guide you.
Source: Urbandendro
http://ravelreiljan.blogspot.com/
Very broadly speaking, about 0.5-1cm per year (in Estonia, varies by species).
It is worthwhile to remember that contrary to popular belief, the cuts made to the tree does not heal, but will be locked into the tree by the defenses systems of the tree itself.
Of course, the "cutting" activity is just as specific as other arboristic things - there are different types of cutting possibilities, as well as different cutting techniques and alternatives for cutting, but - while following the simple points above, there is hope that the trees will be less damaged by cutting.
Enter, for example, "Shigo pruning" in the Internet search engine, select the images, and you will see a lot of pictures to guide you.
Source: Urbandendro
http://ravelreiljan.blogspot.com/
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